Q: Why Does Curly Hair Cost More To Cut?
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The reasons curly haircuts often cost a pretty penny.
I spent much of my youth trying to get curly hair. I had some natural wave, but I had to coax it out with a gallon of spray gel (it was the 80s and 90s; the crunch factor was acceptable) and a diffuser (or “diffusa,” as I still say with my Long Island accent). In the 3rd grade, I begged my hairstylist mom for a perm. She consented (but refused to do the job herself). My stylist used the smallest rollers to give me a head full of poodle-like coils. I was thrilled. I kept perming for years but eventually settled on a looser spiral. While I wasn’t footing the hair salon bill back in those days (thanks, Mom!), it was clear that getting—and maintaining—curly hair costs money.
And, perhaps, no one knows this better than a woman who has natural curls.
While working with my first Beauty Matchmaker client in 2021, I learned that curls often cost more to cut than straight hair. This was frustrating for my client, who was on a tight budget for her even tighter curls. In my research, I found many curly haircuts cost between $70 and $150. While I found my client a stylist to do the job for her desired price, the experience set me on a mission to discover why cutting curls and textured hair is so pricey.
I tapped two top curly hair experts to find the answer: Noelle Cusumano, DevaCurl certified stylist and owner of Valentina Paige Hair Studio in St. James, and Crystal Marshall, owner of Pink Glam Suite in Bay Shore, an expert on natural and textured hair. Here, they talk about the learning curve involved with curls — and why that’s reflected in the price.
Q: What’s really behind the cost of curly hair?
A: “Curly cuts often cost more at a salon because it’s more time-intensive and requires a special skill set,” says Marshall. “The specialized courses on cutting curly hair are rare and more expensive,” she says. It comes down to time and money on your stylist’s end. Let’s break that down a bit more. During a curly cut, you’re getting:
Your stylist’s education: There hasn’t always been a strong emphasis on curly and natural haircare education in cosmetology schools; however, a recent Bill passed in New York State in 2023 will means that all students enrolled in the 1,000-hour cosmetology program will have at least some education on natural texture and curly hair. Previously, those who wanted more curly hair education sought it out independently. Cusumano has certifications from DevaCurl, a program that teaches a specific method of cutting and styling curly and wavy hair—which comes at a price. “I studied at the DevaChan Hair Salon in Manhattan, and my first course was $2,500,” she says. And it’s not one-and-done. There are multiple levels to achieve as a stylist, as well as ongoing education. “Even during the COVID shutdown, there were virtual courses for several hundred dollars,” she says. When you seek out a stylist with specialized training results, it results in a more specialized haircut, and that cost gets passed on to you, the client.
Time: Here’s a little-known fact: Your stylist may block two appointment slots for a curly haircut. “When I do a curly cut, you're with me for about an hour, maybe a little bit more,” says Cusumano. “With a regular haircut, you’re in and out of the chair in a half-hour.” But why do curls take longer? “Curls are three-dimensional and live in space, so they require a special skill set for a polished result,” says Marshall. You’re paying for that extra time that your stylist could’ve had another head in the chair.
Your education: The best curly stylists provide their clients with education from the shampoo process (like how to scrub without causing frizz) through the final result. Your stylist should explain which products to use for your curls and how much to use (so important). Cusumano has her curly clients dry under a hooded dryer that mimics the effects of air-drying. “I want to see how their hair dries naturally.” Once dry, she re-evaluates the cut and makes tweaks as necessary.
Q: Ok, so what if you really can’t swing it?
A: I get it. And this is not to say you can’t find an excellent stylist within a lower price range. Here’s what the pros say about getting a great curly cut without your budget spiraling out of control:
Go less often: One perk of curls is that they don’t need to be cut as frequently as straight hair. “I see most of my curly-haired clients two to three times a year,” says Cusumano. So, while the investment may seem steep initially if you’re going less often, it all balances out. Pro tip: Most stylists (including Cusumano) will do bang trims for free, so you may get by with a tiny trim on top and stretch out the rest of the cut.
Be willing to do your homework: While Marshall strongly suggests saving up for a curly cut, she says you can find someone within your budget if you research stylists. “Search their social media profiles for examples of hair that looks like yours; this way, you know they have experience with similar textures,” she says. Read reviews, and book a free consultation before you get a cut.
Do you wish someone could do the legwork for you? This is where I come in. Whatever your budget is, I’ll help you find the right fit for your curls. Check out Beauty Matchmaker for more details.
