Ask the Trichologist: “Is It OK to Wash My Hair Every Day?”

A scalp expert settles the “to wash or not to wash” debate.

Laura Volpe, a Goldwell master colorist for over 15 years became a certified trichologist, an expert in scalp and hair issues.

In short, yes, it’s perfectly fine to wash your hair daily — if you’re using the right type of shampoo, says Laura Volpe, a trichologist and founder of ManeInk in Huntington, NY. And, really, no one should go more than two days without cleansing their scalp, she says. Washing your hair helps loosen up hairs that are ready to shed and clears away sweat, sebum, dihydrotestosterone (DHT), a hormone linked to hair loss, and environmental pollutants that can clog follicles and irritate your scalp, Volpe says.

Before we get into shampoo specifics, let’s talk about what makes your scalp feel dirty in the first place. “Sebum is an oily substance produced by glands on the scalp,” says Volpe. Its function is to moisturize your hair strands and keep them from getting dry and brittle. But a sebum buildup can lead to greasy roots, dandruff (the microbe that causes dandruff feeds on scalp oils!), and even scalp acne, she says. “How much sebum you produce depends on a few factors including genetics, hormone levels, diet, and activity level,” she says. Because of this, some people can wash their hair more frequently while others can get away with shampooing less.

You may have heard people claim that they have trained their oily-prone roots to be less oily over time by washing their hair less, but Volpe says that’s most likely a happy coincidence. “You can’t regulate your sebum production yourself,” she says. “You can’t train your genetics.” If your roots are suddenly not as oily as they used to be, it could be the result of shifting hormones or a dietary change.

So, what if your hair is dry? You can still wash frequently. “Remember, shampoo is for your scalp, not your hair,” Volpe says. Before washing, brush your hair root to tip with a boar-bristle brush to help distribute sebum through the length of your hair. Then, in the shower, use a pH-balanced shampoo that’s free of sulfates, DEA, and silicones (Volpe recommends XTC Pure Shampoo, a professional line she carries). This will work for all hair types, textures, and color-treated hair, she says. Do two washes, using only the balls of your fingertips (no nails!). “The first wash is to loosen up dirt, pollution, and DHT.” The second round gets deeper, removing buildup from your styling products. Add a small amount of conditioner to your shampoo. Rinse and condition from roots to ends.

So, if you’re struggling with greasy roots by day two, by all means, wash your hair and don’t feel bad about it. In fact, feel good about it — because good hair days start with a clean, healthy scalp.

Do you have a question for a beauty expert? Tell me, and I’ll answer it in an upcoming Q&A.