Your Best Skin—At Every Age
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My real thoughts on anti-aging—and that time I admitted to getting a facial filler
Last week on Instagram I took a strong stance about being “anti” anti-aging. It may sound odd or contradictory for someone in my line of work. I’ve been writing about this category since I’m 22 years old—long before I had crow’s feet. I use products formulated to smooth my fine lines. I’ve had a tiny bit of the RHA filler Revance injected in my nasolabial folds, or smile lines. (Some people won’t talk about this stuff; I’m not some people. What do you want to know?) So, how can I be against anti-aging?
Let me clarify: I am about aging well, whatever that means to you. I am pro “do what you want to do to feel good in (and about) your skin.” I am against the negative connotation that our society has put on aging, especially on an aging women. At 41, I’m not “old,” but the market and some media outlets would like me to believe I am. Suddenly, there are all these rules about how I should wear my hair (there are no age limits on hair parts) or what type of makeup I should wear (I’ll keep my shimmery eyeshadow, thank you). I wholeheartedly reject all that. You do—and wear—what you like. Every time a picture of J.Lo in a bikini hits my feed we have to hear, “She looks amazing for 51.” Or hear endless chatter about the work she must’ve had done. She looks amazing. Full stop. And that’s because she takes great care of herself (regardless of what she may have or may not have done). Growing older is a privilege, and, yes, I’d like to look great as I do it (even if I never reach J.Lo status). But I won’t buy into the narrative that we need to be against aging like it’s a disease to avoid.
So, back to skincare and in-office treatments. I view these things as tools to help support your skin as you age—and they’re a choice. My 72-year-old mother chooses to use nothing but Dove soap and coconut oil—and her skin is beautiful. For others (like me), skincare products are about the ritual, feeling good, looking fresh and glow-y (I’ll take well-rested over younger any day of the week), and keeping your skin healthy so it can age beautifully—whatever that looks like to you.
So, how do we do that? I spoke with top Long Island cosmetic dermatologist Kavita Mariwalla, MD, about some of the things to focus on in your 30s, 40s, or 50s.
Your 30s
At home: If you don’t have a skincare routine down pat, this is a great time to start one. “For a 30-something-year-old, the best advice I can give is that it is the perfect decade to focus on prevention,” says Mariwalla. Physiologically speaking, things start to change in your skin during this decade. Cellular turnover begins to lag (that’s the rate at which dead skin sloughs off) and collagen production slows. Exfoliating treatments such as glycolic acids dissolve the glue-like substance that keeps those skin-dulling cells hanging on for dear life, so they fall off faster. Your skin has more radiance and glow. Try La Roche-Posay Glycolic B5 Serum, $40, with 10% glycolic acid. And if you’re not wearing sunscreen every day, start now. It’s never too late to prevent unnecessary sun damage, which is key for keeping skin healthy and functioning properly. Try Versed Guards Up Daily Mineral Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 35, $22.
In office: Speaking of sun damage…if I could go back and tell my younger self one thing, it would be “stop tanning!” It takes years for the signs of a sun-filled youth to show up on your skin, or so I’m learning now. Fortunately, you have some good options to fade those brown spots. Mariwalla suggests Intense Pulse Light (IPL) treatments, a light-based therapy that destroys unwanted pigment. To prevent lines, some women choose to start Botox (or other neuromodulating injectables) in their 30s—again, a choice. These injections smooth lines caused by muscle contractions (like a furrowed brow). At 41, I haven’t had Botox yet, but would like some right in the 11s (those lines right in-between the brows)—not to necessarily look younger, but to look softer, and maybe like I sleep a full eight hours a night.
Your 40s
At home: Now is the time to build on that daily routine. During the day, add an antioxidant serum. Antioxidants are a little like multivitamins. You may not see their effects, but they’re added insurance. In this case, they’re an additional layer of protection against sun damage. The sun (and other environmental aggressors) unleash free radicals, which are unstable molecules that look to become stable by latching onto to healthy cells. But in doing so, they damage your cells, which can show up on skin’s surface as lines and spots. It can also lead to even scarier stuff such as skin cancer. When you wear a topical antioxidants, they take the free radical hit, neutralizing it before it can damage your cells. There are many potent antioxidants out there, but vitamins C and E paired together have a proven track record. Find them in Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, $166, with 15% L-ascorbic acid (that’s a stable form of vitamin C). Plus, vitamin C helps brighten and even out your skin tone.
At night, the goal is to boost lagging collagen production, which keeps skin firm and smooth. Topical retinoids such as retinol (or the prescription version tretinoin) rev up both cellular turnover and stimulate fresh collagen. Try Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Max Night Serum, $33. Peptides are another option. These proteins are like messengers that talk to your cells, telling them to pump out more collagen. Find both retinol and peptides in Kiehl’s Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptides, $85.
In office: If you’re not getting the skin-brightening results you want from at-home exfoliation, now is a good time to consider professional chemical peels. “A chemical peel is a liquid applied to the skin that breaks down the junction between skin cells, promoting them to slough,” she says. In-office peels are often done with similar ingredients you’ll find in at-home exfoliants such as glycolic acid, only at stronger concentrations. And depending on how deep they peel, you may also get some collagen stimulation, which can soften lines over time.
Your 50s
At home: By now you may have a regimen down: antioxidant/SPF in the morning, retinol or peptides at night, and a really great moisturizer. Hormonal changes in this decade can make skin feel drier, so focus on adding back that hydration. What to look for? Humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid work by drawing water into the the top layer of skin. Occlusives such as Shea butter and jojoba oil help hold that moisture there. These are especially helpful at night when skin naturally loses more moisture, a process called transepidermal water loss (TWEL). Also important: lipids such ceramides, which help to plug up any weak spots in skin’s barrier (the outermost layer), so your skin can retain its moisture levels better. Try CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Cream, $19, with ceramides and hyaluronic acid.
In office: “This is an age where a procedure like microneedling with radiofrequency is great for overall skin tightening and pore shrinking. It helps with laxity and skin firming,” says Mariwalla. “Microneedle is a process where we create microscopic columns of injury in the skin and then apply heat [radiofrequency], which results in collagen production when they heal,” she says.
Bottom line: The term “anti-aging” is unrealistic. Even the best creams, fillers, and lasers can’t stop the aging process, but they can make you feel good about your skin as it ages. So, a better idea: Age well. Take care of your skin. Take care of yourself. And do more of whatever it is that makes you feel comfortable in your skin, whether that’s using a great moisturizer, getting Botox, or both. These are just the tools; you make the rules.
Need more help putting together a skincare routine or more product recommendations? Need to see a skincare pro? I can help with that!
