The Right Way to Use a Diffuser
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The do’s and don’ts of using this curly-hair attachment
Back in the day, I had the late 80s/early 90s starter pack for permed hair: hair pick, Bold Hold, and my trusty diffuser. And my curls were as crunchy as they came. Fortunately, curls have taken on a more natural but still defined look these days, and all of that has to do with the styling process. But as I watch hair-diffusing videos on Instagram from Long Island curly hair specialists, I realize I was doing it all wrong—probably creating the frizz I was trying to avoid. Whoops. I talked to curly hair pro and co-owner of the new Valentina Paige Hair Studio in St. James, Noelle Cusamano, for her tips on diffusing curls the right way.
First, Why Diffuse?
Using the diffuser attachment on your blow-dryer gives hair more controlled airflow. Why does that matter? Too much blowing will ruin the shape of your curls and create frizz. “A diffuser disperses the air to reduce frizz and keep from disrupting the natural curl pattern,” says Cusamano. She’s still a big fan of air-drying for her curly-haired clients but suggests at least diffusing roots for a few minutes to create lift and volume.
Which Type of Diffuser Should I Use?
The classic, plastic round diffuser that may have even come with your dryer is totally fine to use. Cusamano is a fan of the DevaCurl Devafuser ($50, devacurl.com), which looks like a hand. “You can place the hand under the hair against the scalp to create lift in the root area,” she says. The one diffuser attachment to avoid? The sock. It doesn’t allow proper airflow to reach the curls, she says.
How to Use a Diffuser Properly
Start when hair is wet. You want to set curls while they’re still wet. If you wait too long, frizz may set in. Apply your products while your hair is sopping wet, too.
Blow down the cuticle. “Most people tilt their head and hold the diffuser, blowing up against the hair to give lift and fullness. Yes, you will get volume but with a whole lot of frizz,” she says. Instead, hold the diffuser facing down—starting at the root first while upside down.
Use medium heat, mostly. You can blast the root area with high heat, but then switch to a medium heat setting. “A cooler setting will help set the curls in place,” she says.
Use medium-low air setting. You don’t want the wind. “The less you move the curls, the less frizz and more controlled your curls will be,” says Cusamano.
Hands off, especially if you have fine hair. The less movement with this hair texture the better. Cusamano suggests a low and cool setting and using the diffuser to cup curls to allow volume without disturbing the curl pattern and causing frizz. You can lightly scrunch when curls are dry to help soften and create volume.
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